Tracing the past in Robin Hoods Bay

Why are we still so fascinated by stories of smugglers? Maybe it's the secrecy, the tax dodging tactics or simply a childlike desire to play hide-and-seek. In Robin Hood's Bay on the Yorkshire coast on a misty day, you can sense the ghosts of the past, imagining a fleeting glimpse of a smuggler disappearing round a dark corner. 

Robin Hood's Bay was said to be the busiest smuggling village on the east coast in the 18th century. A bale of silk could supposedly pass from the bottom of the village to the topc without leaving the houses, thanks to the network of underground passages and hiding places. Many of these are now lost to time, but locals have shown me a few secret spots that bring these stories to life. It was an ideal location for illicit activity, with a broad bay surrounded by inaccessible clliffs and isolated moorlands. Many different people were involved in this dishonest but well-organised business, from fishermen to the local squire. 

Why was it such big business? During Georgian times, heavy duties were imposed on silks, tobacco, tea, wines and spirits. This was seen as unfair and a barrier to free trade so it was no surprise that local people united with the smugglers against the customs authorities. The dangers were great, but the rewards also many. Wives in Robin Hood's Bay apparently poured boiling water from bedroom windows in the narrow alleyways as excise men passed by. 

Smuggling flourished despite some major successes by the authorities. Records show that in 1777 Whitby Custom House advertised a haul of 650 gallons of gin and 80 gallons of tea. these were goods they'd managed to recapture. How many others simply got passed on and illegally sold? 

It was imperative for the smugglers to move the goods from the coast to inland markets as quickly as possible. Some were carried by the alum ponies and taken on to York or even London. Evocative place names like Brandy Gap at Sawdon and Gin Garth by Danby give an indication of some of these old smuggling routes. 

The smugglers are long gone (I think...) but you can still follow in their footsteps along the narrow cobbled alleyways of Robin Hood's Bay. As you walk past the huddled houses and hidden passageways, it's easy to imagine how it felt in the past. In the Robin Hood's Bay Museum, there's a model of a smuggler's house showing how contraband could be concealed. While you’re there, Pop into Tea, Toast and Post for a coffee and snack: it’s a very friendly, welcoming and quirky cafe with great atmosphere.

It's worth staying longer to really appreciate the atmosphere of this special place. We strongly recommend Baytown Holiday Cottages, run by the wonderful Sam and Sian. They know the area inside-out and are brilliant at matching visitors to exactly the right holiday cottage.