Grinton: woolly wrappers, carrying coffins, flying sheep & buying books

Many people whizz down Whipperdale Bank (one of the best named roads in the Dales?) on their way to Reet, without stopping to admire the stunning Swaledale scenery or pausing in Grinton. Yet Grinton was once an important destination: at the end of the Corpse Way.

​Until 1580, St. Andrews Church, Grinton in Swaledale was one of only a few consecrated burial grounds so people had to carry their dead up to 16 miles. This route became known as the Corpse Way.

Bodies were carried in wicker coffins and rested from time to time on large flat stone slabs - some can still be seen along the route. I think there's one near Ivelet Bridge and along the path near Gunnerside. The Corpse Way avoided villages for fear that the spirit of the dead would be enticed to return. This fear came from Norse mythology, in which the corpse way was thought to mirror the last journey of the soul from the earth to the underworld. It's now a pleasant walking route from Keld to Grinton.

St. Andrews Church is sometimes called the "Cathedral of the Dales" (as is the church in Kirkby Malham). The graveyard is sizeable but the church isn't, although it does have several special features.

Inside the church look out for the grave of Adam Barker, buried in 1692. He has an odd claim to fame.

Wool had been an essential material and the foundation for England's prosperity but new materials and imports threatened the livelihood of landowners who relied on wool and sheep for their income. Many of these were members of parliament so they joined together to pass an Act to try to maintain demand for English wool. The first act was passed in 1666. One of the laws required bodies to be buried in wool. In 1692, Adam Barker was the last person in Swaledale to be fined for sticking to the local tradition of burial in linen, breaking that law. I've heard there's a stone slab somewhere that also records the fine for doing so.

Across the road from the church, look out for the Bridge Inn and then look up to find the sheep on the roof... Yes really!

Next door is the former Grinton Literary Institute, where it's satisfying to see part of its 1903 purpose coming to life again - you can browse and enjoy a great selection of second-hand books, and buy them via the honesty box.

Nearby is the castle-like structure of Grinton Lodge, a former 19th century hunting lodge, and youth hostel since 1948. Imagine how much the first travellers would have enjoyed Swaledale's tranquillity after the horrors of the war.

Nowadays there's another popular attraction nearby, Dales Bike Centre, where Stu and Brenda have built a fantastic hub for cyclists and cake-lovers. Their cafe is well-worth a visit, even if you don't have a bike!

Photo thanks to Steve Christian.

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