Hackfall: if you go down to the woods today...

Can you imagine carrying a full dinner service, several food courses, and heavy wood tables and chairs deep into the woods for lunch? Once upon a time in the 18th century, wealthy young men used to go on the European Tour, a kind of early version of the modern day gap year. They flocked to an ancient woodland Hackfall near Masham. Turner came to paint it, and scenes from Hackfall were featured on the Green Frog Dinner Service commissioned by Empress Catherine the Great of Russia from Wedgwood & Bentley for one of her palaces in 1773.

Nowadays it's mainly known to locals, although Dame Judi Dench recently named it one of her favourite woods. ​It's possibly frequented by a whole host of other modern day celebrities but you'd never know because the woods are so big, with so many varied paths it's easy to completely escape the world. ​

Hackfall looks like a naturally lush and beautiful wooded wilderness but was actually landscaped to look that way by William Aislabie in the 18th century. The Aislabie family are more famous for landscaping Studley Royal and land at nearby Fountains Abbey. Hackfall is set in a steep gorge between Grewelthorpe and Masham. Part of its charm is the stunning setting by the River Ure, wonderful views and sense of being completely at peace in the ancient woodland. Another reason visitors love it is for its otherworldliness, largely thanks to the follies and unexpected small buildings scattered within the woods.

For many years Hackfall was left unloved and neglected. Some of the buildings started to decay and the woods became denser and denser. Had this situation continued, we wouldn't have been able to enjoy today's Hackfall the way we do, but that period of leaving nature to grow over the original layout contributed to the magical feel.

This is why I'm certain teddy bears still go for picnics, undisturbed in their enjoyment of the sandy 'beach' area by the river, and countless spots for hide-and-seek. I'm pretty sure there are fairytale princesses still slumbering in other hidden spots, and Shrek definitely hunts out the wetter spots on his holidays in Hackfall.

Just as in the best stories, along came a rescuer just when it was most needed. The woods were under threat from commercial development but The Woodland Trust came to the rescue and together with the Hackfall Trust set about clearing out the dead wood and restoring Hackfall's special features. The Heritage Lottery Fund made a significant financial contribution in 2007 and since then, visitors have been able to enjoy the restored footpaths and opened-up views.

Many of the follies and special features have grand names, implying they're larger than in reality. I love that they're sort of scaled down versions of what you might expect - it adds to the magic.

​If you use the small car park on the Masham to Grewelthorpe road, the first thing you'll spot is the Banqueting House which is now known as the Ruin, managed by the Landmark Trust and let as a holiday cottage for two. It's a curious place to stay as the three remaining rooms don't interconnect so you have to go outside to get to the bedroom. It's open to the public during the Heritage Open Days in September.

Other features include the Rustic Temple, a welcome spot to rest and enjoy the views. Fishers's Hall is one of our favourite spots, a small but imposing building said to have once been used for sumptuous picnics and woodland dinners. Ancient pictures show countless servants carrying huge tables and provisions to this spot deep in the woods - very different to our modern day version of picnics. Mowbray Castle isn't really a castle, more a mock ruin designed to be admired from a distance. Children love the fountain and pond, which has been restored to make the fountain work again - a wooden contraption has to be vigorously pumped to bring the fountain alive, and when it does it's quite a surprise.

The walk down to Hackfall is quite steep but always worthwhile - no matter how often we go (most weeks), we always notice something new and special. And when you're hungry after a good walk, there are plenty of pubs and cafes in Masham!