I bet the great Victorian painter John Ruskin would have had a lively debate with author James Herriot about what constituted England’s best view, as each one declared different spots in Yorkshire.
While James Herriot’s ‘finest view in England’ was Sutton Bank in the North York Moors, Ruskin plumped for a high viewpoint out from St Marys Church in Kirkby Lonsdale that overlooks the meandering River Lune.
When Ruskin visited in 1875 he declared it to be ‘one of the loveliest in England, and therefore the world’.
He wrote: Whatever moorland hill, and sweet river, and English forest foliage can be seen at their best is gathered there. And chiefly seen from the steep bank which falls to the stream side from the upper part of the town itself … I do not know in all my own country, still less in France or Italy, a place more naturally divine, or a more priceless possession of true ‘Holy Land’.”
Head out from the Devil’s Bridge along the river path and you’ll reach the tortuous flight of Radical Steps, so-called because they were created in 1820 by Dr Francis Pearson, who didn’t seem to be the most-liked resident because of his strong liberal views. No surprise then that there was strong local opposition to him diverting the public footpath that ran through his garden by building the steps.
Luckily there are several landings as you go up the steps so you can take a breather before you reach the motte at St Marys. Here you can find a bench to savour Ruskin’s View as you look across to the Howgill and Middleton Fells as well as the limestone drama of the Gragareth and Ingleborough Peaks.
Words & photo-Amanda Brown